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Speaking Chinook Jargon Like a Northwest Native

There are estimates, more likely wild guesses, that a 100,000 people spoke Chinook Jargon in the old days, which were sometime around the turn of the century. The charm of Chinook Jargon is in its illegitimacy. The inventors of Chinook Jargon were simply up to no good. The traders of Nootka Sound, the Straits of Juan de Fuca, the Gulf of Georgia, Puget Sound and the mouth of the Columbia were out for quick profits, not to confer the blessings of high culture. They wanted prime sea otter and seal skins they could convert to mountains of cash in China. When the Chinese market for skins petered out, they went for salmon, timber, coal, gold (never much of that), whatever was available and selling. They were more interested in cheap whiskey than grammar and not likely to waste their breath on anything more abstract than “hyas makook” (big sale, expensive) or “tenas makook” (little sale, cheap.)

Concrete and unadorned, Chinook Jargon did not garner much respect among the representatives of high culture. Christian missionaries did not make much progress with the native population and some of them blamed the jargon.

J. G. Swan was notable among early observers of the northwest because he became fluent in the Indian languages, like Makah and Clallam, as well as the jargon. Swan settled on Willapa Bay in the 1850’s and later moved to Port Townsend, wrote monographs on Pacific Northwest natives for the Smithsonian, and was schoolteacher to the Makahs on Neah Bay.

Swan said the missionaries failed because the Indians were never shown any advantage to taking on the white religion. The Indians, according to Swan, were fascinated by white ways. They were quick to adopt iron tools and fire arms. They listened to the white clergy’s stories with great interest and they took to singing hymns with the same alacrity that Europeans picked up jazz a century later. But believe that preposterous nonsense? Not on your life. Swan said several times that the Indian could be converted, but first he would have to be convinced and that would take a generation of education. Swan advocated a long game for the Indians: education without conversion. For all his sympathies for the Indians, Swan did not doubt the superiority of white religion and civilization. He expected conversion would automatically follow a generation of education.

But other missionaries were not so diligent in their language studies or patient with the natives. For example, Reverend John H. Frost arrived at the Columbia in June of 1840 from New York via Hawaii as part of the “Great Reinforcement” from the Missionary Society of the Methodist Episcopal Church. Frost met with more difficulties than he was prepared to face. The whites were selling rum and whiskey to the natives and the Chinooks were more interested in trading than religion. Frost gave it up, putting a good share of the blame on the inadequacies of Chinook Jargon. He said “Their language is so defective that thereby, it is impossible to acquaint them with the law.” With that pronouncement, Reverend Frost sailed from the Columbia in August of 1843.

Swan’s point is not difficult to understand. Frost may have been frustrated by the jargon, but it is easy to imagine that lack of empathy was more of a barrier than the language. What were the Indians to think of a tribe that sold lumpechuck and piahchuck, then threw them in irons for consuming it?

How do you speak Chinook like a native northwesterner? You must understand that it is the language of a disappearing underclass: manual laborers who don’t get inside enough, will never be well paid, and are working on permanent joint damage. Only use the jargon in the most everyday situations. Reach for a Chinook word when your message needs the smell of the tideflats, the ambiguous warmth of huddling around a warm up fire in a steady rain, or the howl of a Northeaster at dawn.

What? You never need these nuances? Then you will never need Chinook.

Uses of Vine Maple

The day of a fish fry begins with a trip to the woods to cut green vine maple for the fire. My grandpa was not much of a cook. His contribution to a fish fry was a wheelbarrow load of vine maple cut early in the morning while the dew was still on the grass. He also built a fire in the pit where the salmon would roast. Grandpa cut lengths of vine maple two to two and a half feet long, thickness ranging from five inch logs to finger size twigs. vinemapleHe would split the larger logs. In my memory, Grandpa used an ax and a Swedish bow saw to cut fuel for fish fries. He had a bright yellow McCullough chain saw, but I don’t recall him ever using it. After cutting the fuel, Grandpa would start the fire with newspaper, a little kindling, and dry stove wood from the wood shed and later throw on the fresh cut green vine maple. When the fire was going well, sweet and pungent smoke billowing, snow white ashes juxtaposed to black charcoal, flames barely visible in the bright sunlight, responsibility went to the cook, usually my uncle. Grandpa died when I was eight, taking with him, I believe, more secrets about vine maple than I can tell.

Vine maple is harder, denser, and closer grained than big leaf maple, but its trunk does not grow large or straight. There is not much lumber in a vine maple tree. I have seen vine maple grow to a foot in diameter and straight logs ten or twelve feet long but logs like that are exceptions. A typical vine maple trunk is less than six inches in diameter and curves sinuously. Trunks that soar upward twenty feet before branching are common, but they are typically so twisted that you would be lucky to cut straight four foot boards from one of those logs.

I once overheard John Schaefer, who survived treatment in an army hospital ward for pneumonia contracted in the flu pandemic of 1918 and knew something about life in the shadow of Mount Baker, suggest to Dad that he find two curved vine maple logs to replace the worn out runners of a stone boat Dad used for spreading barrels of aged cattle urine over the fields, a nasty job, still nasty but now replaced by more elaborate technology. Dad and John talked it over. Yes, vine maple was the right wood for stone boat runners. It would last forever. But finding two logs with the same curve was too difficult. If I knew what I know now, and had the resources currently at my disposal, I would have proposed that we find one log and rip it down the middle with a chain saw. I could do that. It would have been a perfect solution. But that was fifty years ago and I could not have said that then. Ten years ago, I could have split a vine maple log with a chainsaw, but today, perhaps not.

Vine maple wood is tough, not brittle. When I was a kid, John Schaefer taught us to make bows from vine maple. They were easy to make, find a a nice length of vine maple; a four foot length and three quarter inch diameter would be about right. Cut it green and whittle notches for the string at each end. We used cotton sack tyeing string for bow strings– they wore out quickly, but when we were sacking potatoes to sell in Bellingham every week, replacement strings were always close at hand. For arrows, we used fine-grained first growth cedar. Most were not fletched and had no arrowhead, just a notch for the bow string, although during a period when I was obsessed with Robin Hood, I made a few arrows with chicken feather fletches and arrow heads made from fragments of copper water pipe. The Indians made usually made their bows from yew, like English long bows, but they used vine maple for the bent wood frames of fish and bird nets.

The Indians also wove long thin and tough vine maple wands into baskets for carrying heavy loads like camas roots and clams. My great grandfather wove baskets which he sold in Bellingham in the early days before we had much cleared land and he had to rely on ingenuity instead of farming to buy coffee and pay the property tax. We still have one of his baskets and I think the frame work is made from vine maple wands, although my grandmother said the basket was woven from willow.

Vine maple sap is sweet. One spring, I tried to make maple syrup. I had no luck with big leaf maples, but I gathered a half cup, probably less, of sweet sap from a vine maple by cutting a half dozen vee-shaped gashes in the bark, driving a nail at base of the vee, putting a little wire bail on a tin can and hanging the can on the nail. The sap collected at the base of the vee, ran down the nail and dripped into the can. The sap was clear and colorless as water and tasted distinctly sweet. The sap stopped running before I got more than that half cup, and I did not try to boil the sap down to syrup. My mother was more impressed by the bugs and dirt that collected in the tin can than with the sap, but I drank it and thought it was pretty good, yet I never tried to gather sap again. Still, in the spring, when I think of it, I cut off a vine maple twig with my jack knife and chew on it, sucking out the the sweetness like a farmer chewing on a stalk of sweet grass.

Salmon Fish Fry

When I look up “fish fry” in the dictionary or in Wikipedia, I don’t find what I expect. The fish at a dictionary fish fry are literally fried. That may be appropriate for points east, but for a northwesterner, it is an appalling prospect. Around Puget Sound and the Strait of Georgia, the proper subject matter of a fish fry is salmon baked over a smoky open fire. J. G. Swan’s recipe, that I have placed in the sidebar, which he recorded at Willapa Bay in the mid-nineteeth century, is almost our exact family recipe for salmon and the recipe for a Salish fish frysalmon roast.

Fish fries are high tradition in our family. I remember going to fish fries when I was a preschooler and my cousin, who is even older than I am, remembers fish fries at our great grandparents house. The family has has been holding fish fries since the days when my great-grandfather first arrived in Washington Territory over a hundred years ago.

My cousin held a small fish fry on the farm last weekend. I called it his potlatch and when I think about it, that may be more fitly chosen than when I first thought of it.

I have to take a moment to say a few things about my cousin. He is six years older than I am. We were raised in a family that was close both in proximity and spirit. Time and mortality has spread us out now, but my great grandparents house, my grandparents house, and my cousins houses were all clustered within a mile radius.  Through adolescence, my cousin led our baby boom cohort through life: a drivers license, girl friends, joining the Marines, living away from the family, getting married, my cousin was always the leader. And, I admit, he was my idol. And as an idol, he always had a minute for me, and I reveled in those minutes. Needless to say, my cousin is a special person to me.

The years could have treated my cousin better. A divorce separated him both from his family and the house and acreage into which he poured his soul. Physical ailments have transformed a robust craftsman into a person forced to factor his physical capabilities into every decision. Still, my cousin is a respected man with many friends.

And a generous man. Fisherman friends gave him a salmon. Not just any salmon, but a sleek, fat monarch that would turn the head of any chef on Puget Sound. My cousin works for the Lummi Nation so it could have come from them. That would have been traditional. In our family, all the best salmon all come from the tribe, and last weekend, instead of hoarding that fine fish for himself, my cousin announced a fish fry.

He roasted the perfect salmon over a smoky vine maple fire, inviting a circle of relatives and friends to join in a festival of mutual good will. If you read cook books and the menus of places like Anthony’s and Ivar’s Salmon House, the wood for roasting salmon is alder, but that is not the tradition in my family. We always use green vine maple. Green vine maple smoke is sweet and gives the salmon a sharper tang than alder. Not that alder is inferior, I have enjoyed many meals of alder smoked salmon, but alder is not vine maple, not the flavor of salmon for this tribe of German descended Bostons.

And for some elusive reason, the vine maple smoke, the fat salmon, and the grace of the tribe around the table, made the occasion a potlatch.