Victoria

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Labor Day weekend, we visited Victoria. In many ways, Victoria is a colonial city. It was at the hub of the British colonial exploitation of the northwest, which was not as lucrative as India but the sea otter and seal skins extracted from the indigenous hunters of Vancouver Island and the Queen Charlottes were enough to put extra silver tea services on tables at Brighton, uncork an extra bottle of French claret at Oxford and Cambridge, and keep the upper lips a bit stiffer in London.

All this came to mind as Rebecca and I ate lunch in the Bengal Room at the Empress Hotel, whose creaking parquet floors, marvelously matched grain woodwork, worn leather, and ancient tiger skins intentionally evoke the Raj, which was still alive when the hotel was built.

The British attitude toward the indigenous population of North America differed from the American attitude. Most significantly, the British had little interest in possessing the country, they merely wanted to profit from it. According to J. G. Swan, an American oysterman, Indian teacher, collector for the Smithsonian, diarist and first hand witness to the interplay between Indians and whites on the Olympic Peninsula of Washington state, the British systematically worked with the natives, carefully manipulated prices of trading goods, and methodically grabbed the most they could from their colony with a businesslike eye on longterm maximization of profits. Tending to the welfare of the natives was a form of scientific cropping.

The Americans– Bostons, as they were called in Chinook jargon– were inclined toward harum-scarum idealism and less systematic, generally regarding the native people as a bad-smelling hindrance to full use of the resources of the land and sea, which were the destined possessions of the American whites. The Bostons fretted over converting the savages to Christianity, sold them illegal, and occasionally poisonous, whiskey at street drug prices, and generally had neither hesitation nor scruple about robbing them blind, hoping all the time that they would go away.

Victoria is charming. It maintains the image of a bastion of British civilization on the edge of the world with the frantic and sincere effort of tourism bureaus and local boosters everywhere, but with effortless grace, the city hosts a collection of totem poles and indigenous art associated with the Royal British Columbia Museum. The collection is a portal into the unique civilization of hunter-gathers in a paradise so plentiful that they could stay in one place and develop an elaborate and elegant society comparable to, but vastly different from, societies that arose around the stationary abundance of agricultural economy.

When the Europeans arrived, it is hard to determine who was more sophisticated, the Indians who used the simple seamen as pawns to gain status in the elaborate coastal social structure, or the Europeans who made fortunes freighting sea otter skins to China. Reading the record of the northwest coast in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, it is not clear who is taking advantage of whom. Eventually, smallpox and whiskey decimated and unnerved the Indians, leaving them to struggle as the Bostons and British took over their territory, but until the mid-nineteenth century, coastal arts flourished. Larger and larger lodges were built, taller totem poles erected and mightier and mightier displays of wealth were made at huge potlatches, all based on the influx of goods fleeced from the ignorant Europeans.

manwithhandinmouthThe history of this fine period can be seen in the displays at the RBCM, where the poles, carvings, and artifacts were harvested and put on display. I spent two days of the long weekend drinking in the power of the bizarre Indian images. I am not an art historian, or a connoisseur of the visual arts so I can’t say much, except to comment that the elaborate vocabulary of the images shouts out that the artists said something important and dramatic to their fellows, but what it was, would be insulting for me to guess.

Sweet Corn

We have sweet corn tonight. Of all the crops you can grow for yourself, sweet corn is the one that is always clearly and unmistakably superior when grown at home. Even corn bought from a farmer wearing black suspenders and an old panama hat on the roadside, even if the tobacco chewing old geezer pulled the ears that very morning, the corn has begun to deteriorate by the time it is at table.

corntassleI pulled the first half dozen ears of corn from our sweet corn patch before I sat down to write this and Rebecca is heating water now. earofcornThe ears are not as ripe as I like them. They remain at the blister stage; the milk in the kernels is still watery. In another three or four days, the milk will be opaque, but not starchy yet, which is  perfect for me. Rebecca and my father (when he was still alive) prefer the corn at the blister stage.

I planted two varieties of yellow sweet corn, just like my father always did: Kandy Korn and Golden Jubilee. Kandy Korn ripens a little earlier for us than Golden Jubilee, but I think Golden Jubilee has better flavor even though Kandy Korn is an “extended sugar” variety which is purported to be sweeter than the old style Jubilee. By planting two varieties that mature at different times, the corn season is a little longer. There will be plenty of corn for us and a few others, but the crop is nothing like the bounty I imagined when I planted. I had hoped to take bushel after bushel to the food bank. There may be a chance for that yet, but I have doubts.

I’m not a good farmer for a number of reasons. I travel too much, which means I am discussing computer configuration management in San Jose or New York when a farmer would be out in the garden. A flush of Canadian thistles will not wait for the return flight from SFO. A loose coupling that holds the Alaska run from Las Vegas to Bellingham on the runway in the desert for 4 hours does not slow up the quack grass. I marvel that I travel at six hundred miles per hour thirty thousand feet above the ground, and the weeds sit still at zero feet, they win.cornfield

Second, hypertrophic cardiomyopathy and the after effects of the septal myectomy which I had last November  tire me easily. Many evenings, I am too tired to weed and hoe like a serious farmer.

Finally, I lack knowledge and skill. I am a computer programmer and a crypto-chinese scholar, not a true farmer.  I did not adjust my cultivator properly and plant accurately. The rows in my corn field are uneven and hard to follow, wandering like a dog on a hunt. Unlike my father who operated his tractor with delicacy and refinement that demolished weeds without ever touching a crop, I am clumsy and obliviously destroy great swaths of corn in seconds as I wollow through the cornfield on my tractor.

No matter. We have sweet corn tonight.

Anthony Trollope

Anthony Trollope is a risky subject. My daughter, Athena, whose opinion I respect, rolls her eyes and gets embarrassed at the utter density of her father when I mention Trollope. But I can’t help it. To begin with, I am partial to Victorians. I don’t have much patience with skirts on piano legs and prigs who must say white meat instead of breast when the turkey is carved, but I respect the society that first recognized that women are not chattels and poverty is a condition to surmount, not a crime to punish.  Anthony Trollope was born to a family on the edge of respectability.trollope His mother wrote novels to support her family after Trollope’s father’s law practice failed. His family sent Anthony Trollope to the right schools, but he had to withdraw when funds ran out. Anthony had a distinguished career in the post office, inventing the letter box still seen all over Britain. Eventually he withdrew from the post office to pursue a full time literary career, but only after he was thoroughly established as a civil servant in the post office.

As a writer, Trollope was a novel machine. He wrote an allotment of pages a day, every day, whether at home or traveling for the post office, as he frequently did. When he finished a draft of one novel, he started the next immediately and he claimed never to revise. He was the most prolific of the Victorian novelists, far exceeding the output of Dickens and Thackeray, with whom he is often compared.

Of the great Victorians, I think Trollope is my favorite. Dickens was clearly a master and a genius, but his characters are exagerated, better, worse, or more comic than the real people I know. Trollope’s genius is in the way he captured characters that are exactly as you might meet them at your job or in your home: interesting, sympathetic, but not overdrawn or exaggerated.

I have posted one of Trollope’s short stories, The Panjandrum, to give you a sample of his skills.